I’m going to go through my basic stripdown of the bayonet K-3 body in this post. The ideas is to show the steps in the removal of the main ‘baffle’ plate, the inner silver plate that you see when you open up the camera to load film etc. This is required to remove the ‘loop formers’ from the camera, which can sometimes lead to film scratching, even though when they are gone film-loading isn’t quite so ‘automatic’ afterwards. Secondly, removing the plate will let me check a little further on my camera as to why the lightmeter isn’t working. Thirdly, removing the baffle permits access to two of the five screws that secure the gate into the camera, vital to swap out the gate if you are considering a ‘Super16’ conversion.
First things first, and that’s to collect a few tools together. Grab yourself a pair of pliers and some screwdrivers. A few years ago I bought one of these little kits for finer work:
OK, so you aren’t going to be leaving this to the grandkids in your will, but the quality is acceptable enough for what we are doing, and having the extremely small bit sizes is really what we are after:
Obviously for larger screws you will need something larger that you can put a bit of force into.
One thing to remember is that if your camera hasn’t been apart before there is likely to be sealant around some of the screws, others will simply be tight. Using tools in this situation does require some experience if you are not going to ’round out’ screw heads and give yourself real headaches. Get the tool and work organised so that you can apply equal levels of force DOWN into the screw and in a TURNING motion. Take some time to clean the screwhead out, and use a bit or screwdriver that is a PERFECT fit, longer handles are always good too. Think about applying a tiny dab of thread unlocker with a cotton bud, or reversing your direction (i.e. doing up) before giving up. Take a break if things aren’t working out BEFORE you damage anything…
(more coming soon….)